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Dear Subscriber,
A few kilometres travelled and two great trips! - one to the Head of Bight and the other the Gawler Ranges.
I have included a report on the Head of Bight in this issue, and there is a link to view the itinerary.
A summary of all itineraries for next year is at the foot of this newsletter!
I will be at the 4WD Adventure Show in Perth 8th to 12th November on behalf of the VKS737 Australian 4WD Radio Network. If you happen to be at the Show, come and say G'day!
I hope you enjoy reading this newsletter!
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Head of Bight trip news
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| The Sea SA Ferry from Wallaroo to Lucky Bay (near Cowell) would have required a very early start on this particular trip, so we chose instead to drive around Spencer Gulf, taking in Port Germein, Port Augusta and Whyalla.
Cowell has Australia's only commercial jade mine and produces rare black jade as well as the more common greens and also some very colourful marble. The showroom has relocated to the Cowell Jade Motel, and we stopped for a visit!
A couple of pleasant detours to Arno Bay and Port Neil, then on to Tumby Bay and our accommodation at the friendly Sea Breeze Hotel (en-suites).
This is an ideal base from which to leave next morning as we travel along Trinity Haven Scenic Drive - (by the way the Whibbley Wattle was in flower!) to Poonindie and St Matthew's Anglican Church.
The little church was built in 1850 and survived the 2005 bushfires, which swept through the area.
A tour of Port Lincoln included the homes of some of the city's wealthy tuna fishermen, Lincoln Cove Marina and a scenic outlook from Winters Hill.
We picked up a key from the Visitor Information Centre and travelled south to the privately owned Whalers Way.
 Here, a track runs for 14 km around the coastline and offers excellent views of blowholes, bomboras, dramatic crevasses, (Theakstone Crevasse) capes and cliffs. The whole coastline is pounded by the waves from the southern ocean and the area is home to substantial numbers of kangaroos and emus.
We enjoyed a picnic lunch, visited many of the attractions, then made our way back along the track to Sleaford Bay, returning to Port Lincoln and the road to Coffin Bay.
 A well timed visit next morning to:
visiting the lookouts at Templetonia and Golden Island, Point Avoid and several other roadside stops along the Avoid Bay coast. These lookouts offer spectacular views of limestone cliffs, islands and rugged beach reefs.
The biggest industry in Coffin Bay is of course the oyster farms, and we were fortunate to be able to arrange a tour of the Pure Coffin Bay Oyster shed to talk with the Leading Hand and learn about how the oysters grow on the water.
It did not take much tempting for us to taste a variety of freshly shucked oysters and we reluctantly bade farewell to Steve and his staff before our journey up the coast to Mt Hope, Sheringa and Elliston. We are now seeing rugged and scenic coastline - the 12-kilometre stretch of coast north of Elliston, known as Elliston's Great Ocean View, is said to rival the landscape of Victoria's Great Ocean Road, but on a smaller scale!  Between here and Port Kenny are the Talia and Woolshed Caves and the "Tub" - a huge round hole in the ground about 75 ft in diametre & 20-30 feet deep. At the bottom of this hole is a tunnel that leads to the ocean.  Next an area next of Inselberg rock formations and in particular "Murphy's Haystacks". They obtained their name because a traveller in a coach saw the formation in the distance. He asked how a farmer could produce so much hay. As the farm was on a property owned by a man called Murphy, the rocks became known as Murphys Haystacks. Point Labatt has the only permanent breeding sea-lion colony on Australia's mainland and we arrived there via Calca to watch a number of pups learning to swim, play and rest on the beach, then made our way through Sceale Bay to Streaky Bay and an overnight stop. Anticipation was high next day as we made our way closer to Head of Bight! Smoky Bay is a beautiful coastal village on the Western Eyre Peninsula,and it is home to over 20 different oyster operations. And talking again of oysters - we arrived in Ceduna as they were preparing for the "Oysterfest".A large blackboard in the main street caught our eye - "Whale sightings today 150" - wow!!...it was looking good! We decided to have a cup of coffee in a cafe nearby, and on returning to the car afterwards, found the sign had been changed to "50 whales". Still good! Nullarbor, the world's longest golf course is an 842-mile trek through the Nullabor Plains, starting at Ceduna in the state of South Australia and finishing at the mining town of Kalgoorlie in Western Australia.The seven holes taken from existing golf courses include some with sand greens that are raked, oiled and then rolled to maintain their smoothness.  Now, we decided to take a 20km detour out of Penong to "Cactus Beach" for no other reason that one of our ladies had heard from her son that it is a fantastic surfing beach. The road although unsealed was not too bad, and went across a number of shallow lakes. It certainly looked a great beach with the surf rolling in.  A road sign at the causeway of one of the lake crossings to Cactus caught our eye, and I thank Carol for the pic! We found a connecting road from Cactus Beach to Fowlers Bay - a place described in many brochures as having "sun, surf, sandunes and sensational fishing". It was a little windy and we were grateful of the old church BBQ shed for shelter as we had lunch.  Back on the main highway at Nundroo, we passed by Yalata Roadhouse (now closed as all information has transferred to the Whale Centre) ) and up to Head of Bight.  | |
photo courtesy of Carol
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There are several vantage points on the boardwalk from the Visitor Centre to the cliffs, and that afternoon we saw a number of whales - some with calves which were "showing off" perfecting the art of tail slashing while mum kept a close watch. After a couple of hours whale watching and taking photos,we drove the short distance to Nullarbor Roadhouse and our overnight accommodation.  | | Bunda Cliffs - courtesy of Carol |
Approximately 50km west of Nullarbor Roadhouse there are tracks off the highway heading to the coast. Several of these provide excellent vantage points to view the Bunda Cliffs. These daunting 65 m high cliffs stretch for 200 km along the Great Australian Bight.
 | | Wirrulla Jetty - courtesy of Carol. |
After another visit to the Head of Bight Centre, we headed back to Ceduna and joined the Flinders Highway to Wirrulla - the inland town with a jetty! Our overnight stop at Minnipa enabled us to visit both local attractions (Pildappa Tcharkuldu, Rocks ) and also Mt Wudinna and Polda Rock and Farmers Monument at at Wudinna. The choice to stay at Minnipa also allowed us next day to take the Yardea Road into the Gawler Ranges National Park and via old Paney Homestead to the Kolay Mirica Falls.
 | | Kolay Mirica Falls - courtesy of Carol |
Although there was no water at the falls, the site has one of the best examples of "organ pipes". These octagonal columns are made from the volcanic rhyolite, formed after volcano eruption some 1500 million years ago. Ash and lava created a solid rock up to 1500 meters thick, which after cooling formed what we now call organ pipes. After climbing one of the nearby cliff faces, we took the road past Buckleboo Station to Kimba for lunch then on to Iron Knob and Port Augusta.
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On the Bridle Track - courtesy of Carol
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Next day into the Flinders Ranges via Horrocks' Pass to Wilmington and Melrose, where we picked up the scenic 4WD Bridle Track to Port Germein.
When the Germein Gorge was used for transporting grain and wool to Port Germein from the eastern
farm country, it would have been very busy with wagons, horse teams and bullock teams, so this track was used to drive stock over. From Port Germein we took Highway One back to Adelaide. The Head Of Bight Trip was most enjoyable and I look forward to doing it again!
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| National Parks Update | | Desert Parks Bulletin 440 - 22nd October 2012
The following is the status of several Outback Roads:
Coongie Track - Open to 4WD. !!
Walkers Crossing Track - Closed due to floodwater damage and major ponded water from rains.
15 Mile Track and Access to Cooper Creek -Open. 15 Mile Track is closed beyond Wills turn off.
Cullyamurra Track and Burke's Grave - Open to 4WD. Burke's Grave - day visitors only.
Old Strzelecki Track (on Innamincka Regional Reserve only) - Open to 4WD. Caution at washouts
Lake Eyre - Halligan Bay Track and Level Post Bay Track Open to 4WD with caution.
The Parks Bulletin may be viewed here. |
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Burra Railway Station
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After many years of neglect, the Burra Railway Station is being restored and a State Government grant of $200,000 to assist with the work was provided in March 2010.
There is still work to be done, and the Burra Railway Station Fundraising working group has requested two events be advertised.
One is the Burra Bumper Quiz Night on Friday 16th November, and the other is a Station Tour and morning teaon Saturday 17th November. (Click links to view flyers)
It is intended the restored building will be redeveloped as a palaeontology and archaeology museum and would showcase remains of mega fauna discovered in the nearby Redbanks Conservation Park. A research and educational centre there would also promote local Ngadjuri culture.
The Burra Railway Station was built in 1883 to replace an earlier wooden structure,
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Flinders Ranges History
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Funding through the South Australian Tourism Commission has enable Flinders Ranges and Outback SA Tourism to establish a website with historical information on the Flinders Ranges.
The FLINDERS RANGES contains information about the discovery, how people lived, mining, transport and communications, and other interesting information.
There is even a tab on "Walking the Flinders Ranges"!
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Anna Creek Station
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After almost shutting down during the drought, the world's biggest cattle station is back in full production.
Four years ago Anna Creek Station, which stretches over 24,000 square kilometres between Coober Pedy and Lake Eyre in South Australia's far north, was down to just a few hundred animals after destocking.
But after three years of better-than-average rains, the famous pastoral property has rebuilt its herd to almost 17,000 head of mainly Santa Gertrudis and Brahman cattle.
"It's just good to see cattle back on the place," said head stockman Gordon Warren, who has spent more than half his life working on the remote station.
The once bare sand dunes that drifted freely are now secured by scrub, that may not look particularly lush but is nutritious.
"Whatever grows here is beautiful cattle feed," Mr Warren said.
"Strangers come here and have a look and say what the hell are these cattle eating, but we've trucked some good cattle out of this place."
In the last financial year more than 5,000 calves were branded at Anna Creek and around 4,000 animals sent to slaughter.
"It's good to put steers up the race and have a look at their weights," station manager Norm Sims said.
"You turn them off young, you know you're making really good money on them."
Anna Creek is part of the S Kidman and Co pastoral empire, a family-owned company which has a dozen stations.
The revival of the largest one has come at a good time.
It has also been used to add value to cattle from the company's northern stations, that had nowhere to go after live exports to Indonesia were temporarily stopped last year.
"We've put weight on them, we've been getting a calf or two out of them and then sending them on," Mr Sims said.
"If they didn't have this place and other places in the channel country, they'd be feeling it pretty hard."
While he is relishing the revival of the desert country, Mr Sims is also realistic about the chances the good run will continue.
"We haven't had a rain for the last four months since the end of February," he said.
"So if we don't get a rain, like a summer rain, it could be back dry again within the next six months."
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Personalised 4WD trips 2013
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These trips are in a Toyota Landcruiser vehicle with a maximum of 4 passengers:
CLICK IMAGE TO VIEW Itineraries 2013
Yorke Peninsula
& Southern Flinders
Sunday 3rd February
(5 days)
$1350pp
Ardrossan, Port Julia, Port Vincent, Edithburgh, and Wool Bay. Scenic drive to Troubridge Point and Marion Bay. Innes National Park includes Cable Bay, Cape Spencer and Pondalowie Bay. Corny Point, Warooka and Yorketown.
Moonta and Wallaroo. Banking museum Kadina.
Southern Flinders Ranges, Alligator Gorge, Melrose.
Bridle Track to Port Germein.
Dar es Hill Circuit
Monday 11th February
(2 days)
$695pp
Gilbert Valley, Terowie, Peterborough (overnight), Franklyn, Ketchowla, Dares Hill, Mt Bryan, Clare Valley.
Kangaroo Island Saturday 16th March
Thursday 31st October (Includes Sealink ferry)
Penneshaw, Antechamber Bay, Cape Willoughby,
American River, Kingscote, Flinders Chase National Park,
Cape Borda, Admirals Arch, Cape De Coudic, Seal Bay, Emu Bay, Stokes Bay, Snelling Beach, Western River Cove.
Wilson's Promontory
Friday 1st March
(9 days)
$3475pp
Grampians NP, Halls Gap, Penshurst, Mortlake, Colac, Queensciffe Ferry, Sorrento, Meeniyan, Tidal River, Waratah Bay, Walkerville, Agnes Falls, Strzelecki Ranges, Tara Bulga NP, Grand Ridge Road, Skenes Creek,
The Great Ocean Road, Mt Gambier, The Coorong.
The Sapphire Coast
Monday 15th April
(8 days)
$3275pp
Portland, Great Ocean Road, Otway Tree Top Walk, Apollo Bay, Metung, Lakes Entrance, Eden, Twofold Bay, Pambula, Merimbula, Bega, Victorian coastal towns, Meeniyan, Camperdown, Dunkeld, The Coorong.
The Gawler Ranges
Sunday 13th October
(5 days)
$1750pp
Port Wakefield, Port Germein, Port Augusta, Iron Knob, Corunna, Siam, Nonning, Mt Ive, Lake Gairdner, Yardea, Hiltaba, Paney Station, The Organ Pipes, Pildappa Rock, Tcharkuldu Hill, Minnipa, Wudinna, Kimba, Wilmington, Melrose, Gladstone, The Clare Valley.
Lake Eyre Friday 10th May
(3 days)
$1295pp Includes Plane Flight!
Clare Valley, Leigh Creek, Marree, One and a half hour plane flight over Lake Eyre, Farina Ruins, Ochre Cliffs, Hawker, Orroroo, Terowie, Burra.  Back O'Bourke
Saturday 27th April
Broken Hill, Mutawintji NP, White Cliffs, Wilcannia, Tilpa, Louth, Bourke (accommodation Bourke Riverside Motel), Lightning Ridge, Gilgandra, Cobar, Balranald, Murrayville, Pinnaroo.
The Painted Desert
Wednesday 15th May
(9 days) $3495pp
Clare Valley, Leigh Creek, Marree, William Creek, Coober Pedy,
The Breakaways, Painted Desert, Woomera, Roxby Downs, Andamooka,
Port Augusta, Arid Lands Botanical Gardens, Horrock's Pass to the Flinders Ranges, Orroroo and Burra.
Mungo and Hattah
Kulkyne
National Parks
Monday 8th April
(5 days)
$1750pp
Pinnaroo, Kow Plains Homestead and Cowangie, Murrayville, Pink Lakes, Underbool, Mildura, Wentworth, Old Zanci Station, Mungo Woolshed, Walls of China, Grand Canyon, Vigar's Well, Perry Sandhills, Paddle Steamer through Lock 11 Mildura, Red Cliffs, Lake Hattah, Lake Victoria, Rufus River, The Riverland.
 Coongie Lakes Saturday 1st June Saturday 15th June (7 days) $2700pp
Old Strzelecki Track, Innamincka, Coongie Lakes, Cmp LXV, Cameron Corner, Sturt NP, Tibooburra, Broken Hill, Loch Lilly and Quandong Stations, Burra.
Birdsville & Innamincka
Saturday 20th July
(9 days) $3500pp
Clare Valley, Leigh Creek, Marree, Mungerannie, Birdsville,Innamincka, Cameron Corner, Sturt National Park, Tibooburra,Broken Hill, Old Pastoral route to Burra, Adelaide.
Birdsville & Windorah
Saturday 10th August
Clare Valley, Leigh Creek, Marree, Mungerannie, Birdsville, Betoota, Windorah, Quilpie, Toompine, Thargomindah, Cunnamulla, Bourke, Cobar, Broken Hill.
Flinders Ranges
& Skytrek
Thursday 5th September
Rawnsley Park, Wilpena Pound, Willow Springs Station, Skytrek, Bunyeroo Valley, Brachina Gorge, Blinman, Parachilna Gorge, Moralana Scenic Drive, Melrose, The Bridle Track. Port Germein, Laura, Orroroo, Burra, Eudunda, Kapunda.
Flinders Ranges
&
Arkaroola
Saturday 14th September
Rawnsley Park, Wilpena Pound, Bunyeroo Valley, Brachina Gorge, Blinman, Arkaroola, Ridgetop Tour, Nooldoonooldoona Waterhole, Gammon Ranges, Moralana Scenic Drive.
 
Flinders Ranges & Outback Tuesday 26th March (8 days) $3785pp
Rawnsley Park, Wilpena Pound, Bunyeroo Valley, Brachina Gorge, Blinman, Arkaroola, Ridgetop Tour, Nooldoonooldoona Waterhole, Gammon Ranges, Moralana Scenic Drive.
Marree, The Oodnadatta Track, William Creek, Coober Pedy,
The Painted Desert, Woomera, Roxby Downs.
 Tumby Bay &
The Eyre Peninsula
Monday 21st October (5 days)
$1595pp
Port Germein, Arno Bay, Port Neill,Trinity Haven Scenic Drive, Poonindie, Port Lincoln, Sleaford Bay, Whaler's Way, Tod Reservoir, Cummins, Mt Hope, Point Drummond, Greenly Beach, Dutton Bay, Coffin Bay, Koppio Museum.
Enjoy a Clydesdale Horse and trolley ride!
Return is via Horrock's Pass to Flinders Ranges, Orroroo and Burra.
Head of Bight
&
The Eyre Peninsula Sunday 22nd September (8 days)
$2950pp
Port Germein, Arno Bay, Port Neill,Trinity Haven Scenic Drive, Poonindie , Port Lincoln, Sleaford Bay, Whaler's Way, Coffin Bay, Lock's Well, Elliston, Talia Caves, Venue Bay, Murphy's Haystacks, Point Labatt, Streaky Bay, Smoky Bay, Ceduna,
Penong, Cactus Beach, Fowlers Bay,Nullarbor Roadhouse,
Head of Bight Whale Centre, Minnipa, Wudinna, The Gawler Ranges National Park, Kimba, Iron Knob, Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens, Wilmington, Melrose, The Bridle Track to Port Germein, Clare Valley.
 Mount Samuel
4WD Alpana Station
Sunday 25th August (4 days) $1525pp
Clare Valley, Wilmington, Quorn, Hawker and Oraparinna to Alpana Station. Using Blinman as a "base" we travel Glass Gorge to Oratunga Creek and Alpana Station.
Lake Torrens, Nilpena Sandhills, Mt Buggery, Mt Deception and Patawarta Hill!
Picnic lunch Green well Creek before continuing to Valley Bore where it is common to see kangaroos, emus, feral goats.
The Parachilna Gorge Road takes us past Angorichina Station and back to Blinman.
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Thanks for your continued interest in Desert Sky Tours
Sincerely,
Howard Humby
Desert Sky Tours
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